Check for any burrs on the parts before assembly and deburr as necessary. The piston needs special attention with an exacto knife. Note there are no metric threads on the parts supplied in this kit except the spark plug hole. Note: The sleeve is no longer removable as it was in the older engines. It is heat shrunk in and removing and reinstalling it will ruin the tolerances. You can send the cylinder casting with the sleeve in it back to us and we can bore it to an oversize should it ever need it. Oversizes available are +.002, +.004 and +.006. This is done with torque plates installed. The sleeve can be replaced, but you will need to send the cylinder back to us for this also. This is a little more inconvenient than the old slip in sleeves but the end result is a much better product. Bearings now come pre-installed so you don't have to follow the procedures below, but if you want to change the bearings, heat the cases up to drop the bearings out and then follow the instructions below to put them back in. When installing the clip in the case, make sure that it is pushed outward all the way or the bearing won't go all the way down and you won't have any crank end play. Use only genuine ZENOAH bearings. Do not use any other bearings besides these. Failure to do so will result in little or no crank end play. Heat cases to 350 Deg. Fahrenheit and drop bearings in. DO NOT PRESS BEARINGS IN COLD CASES. Be sure the bearings are all the way down and not cocked in the bearing bores. Put some grease on the seal lips for seal lubricatrion. Put a little gear sealant (Mopar #82300234, you can find this at Chrysler, Dodge or Jeep dealers. Use this sealer anywhere on the engine that sealer is required. This sealer won't dissolve in gasoline and it is easy to clean up. This stuff is worth going after and once you get it you will use it on everything) between the case halves and bolt together. Be careful not to pinch the rod in the pulse port slot when assembling cases. Use a little bit of gear sealant on the ignition plate to case surface. Put case in the vise, but do not crush it. Use a good fitting #2 screwdriver to tighten the screws while pushing down on them. Either use a screwdriver like a Snap-On brand or another style that has a hex on its shank to put a wrench on and tighten it. A channel lock plier grabbing around the handle also works in a pinch. Check to make sure that there is no burrs or metal shavings in the wrist pin circlip holes. (NOTE: USE A 260 WRISTPIN IN THE MOTOR)Install piston with the ring locating pin towards the intake port. Apply oil on cylinder, piston, wrist pin bores and all bearings. DO NOT assemble dry. Install head button o-ring into head. Make sure the o-ring is in the groove and does not get pinched between the sleeve and the head. Be sure and use antiseize on the bolts that hold the head down. Install head button and tighten down. Check and make sure that there are no burrs in o-ring groove in the water cover. Install o-ring into water cover groove. Apply a little bit of oil on the o-ring. Add gear sealer to outer edge of the water cooling cover. Cylinder was designed with the intake port on the right side of the motor when viewed from back of boat. DO NOT TRY AND REVERSE THE CYLINDER. Spray base gasket with WD40. Give it a few minutes to soak in. Install base gasket on case making sure pulse port slot lines up. DO NOT USE ANY SEALER IN THIS AREA. Install cylinder using 8-32X5/8 bolts, Belleville washers and the 5/16X.050 washer. Belleville washer goes under head of screw. Then the 5/16X.050 washer goes under that. Tighten down cylinder base bolts using a L-shaped wrench to do this that has been ground shorter to fit in this area. You may need to use a ball driver. After each run check the base bolts. Continue to check until fully seated and will not tighten any more. Gasket is now seated and you should continue to keep an eye on them, but they should not loosen as quickly as they will with a new gasket. (The cylinder base bolt loosening and other vibration problems can be helped dramatically by adding the optional output flywheel.) The 1 water fitting on the base of the cylinder is for the water in. The 2 fittings on the water cover are the water out, they go on the pullstarter side. Do not reverse the cover to make more clearance under your cowl. If you reverse this your engine will overheat and it will do a lot of damage. If you need more clearance for water outlet lines use Aeromarine #2004 fittings. DO NOT USE A TEE HERE. Use 2 water lines to dump overboard. Use blue loctite on the crankcase pulse port holes that you do not want to use. Use the set screws noted in the hardware list to do this. Use the 2 #10 washers under the head of the intake manifold mounting bolts. Some grinding on manifold in the corner will have to be done to clear the washers. Use blue Loctite on the screws that mount the intake manifold. Break in time, run easy for about 10 laps. Be sure and run Honda HP2 motorcycle oil at 10 oz. per gallon of oil. Your engine will run the fastest on VP U2 racing fuel. When it comes to the oil, do not think that you know it all and use something else or some other mixture. If you want to run a different oil because you run it in one of your other engines, then change the oil for your other engine, not this one. After all, you probably paid more for this engine than the other engine anyway. Do not call us wanting to discuss different oil or oil ratios. We do not want to talk about it. As far as we are concerned, this is the only oil and the only ratio you can run. NOTE: If you use Aeromarine drive couplers, cut (shorten) so there is .080 behind the hex. If you don't do it, it will interfere with the output crankshaft seal and destroy the seal. If you use any other collet, check for clearance.
Be sure and check the ring end gap. Place ring in the bore. Push piston in to square ring within the cylinder bore. Use feeler guage to measure ring end gap. Minimum end gap should be .007" wide. If not file ring. Try to keep end as square as possible. Try not to get end gap larger than .007". To tight of ring end gap will cause ring breakage. 
NOTE: The ignition plate has 3 positions for the red source coil. If the coil is mounted all the way to the right, this is stock Zenoah timing. If you move it counter clockwise to the left to the next set of holes this is 5 degrees of advance. This seems to run the best using our pipe. The next set of holes to the left is 10 degrees of advance and so far we have lost power whenever we try to use this setting. The engine also kicks back hard when you try to start it at this setting. There may be a need in the future for this timing setting or maybe it will work good with your own set up. Our advice is to either use the stock setting or 5 degrees only. 

Use NGK CMR7H spark plug, gapped to .025.
DO NOT USE THE CHAMPION RZ7C SPARK PLUG, severe engine damage will result. Only use the NGK CMR7H spark plug, gapped to .025

If you get water in the motor. Do not run it again until you take the cylinder off and flush it out. It is not worth having the grit tear up the motor that gets into it. With the new base gasket system this makes it easy to do. Remove the 4 base bolts and flush out the water with carb spray until no water is evident. Reoil everything and reinstall the cylinder. If you do this quickly enough, a lot of times you can reuse the same gasket if you do not take to long. If gasket gets hard or curls up install new one. Spray gasket with WD40 on both sides and install. Follow same procedure as before with seating a new gasket. After end of day running use ROST OFF from WURTH products and spray into motor until it runs out everywhere. Leave this way until you run again. When you run again, remove the sparkplug from motor and pull rope to remove excess ROST OFF from motor. Reinstall sparkplug and run like normal. ROST OFF's phone number is 1-800-987-8487 and the partnumber is 08902 . You will have to take it in case quantities of 12 per case. This is a very good product and you will use it in many things. 
If you run in salt water, be sure to remove head button and dry out the 10 bolt holes in the cylinder and reapply anti-sieze to the bolts once you are done running for the day. Do not let the engine sit overnight after it's been running in salt water without doing this. Otherwise the bolts will corrode in and removal will be difficult if not impossible.
These are the new style pipes. These only use 1 o-ring between the spigot and the engine and put one o-ring between the aluminum flange and the back of the spigot. After running for the day, remove the flex from both the header and the body. Dry off and recoat inside and outside where it plugs into the coupler with Anti-Seize. Failure to do this will result in a permanently rusted in flex coupling.
REPAIRS If you want the repairs done correctly and the latest revisions, you need to send your engine back to us. We don't recommend having other shops work on your Quickdraw because they don't have the equipment it takes to do it correctly. That is because they don't need that equipment to work on a Zenoah
WARNING: Do NOT use prop blast pickups, use double rudder pick ups only.

WARNING: Always set your boat up so you can kill the engine with the radio. You will need a kill switch connected and activiated by a 3 rd channel to kill your engine reliably. Simply closing the carburetor will NOT kill the engine reliably, you MUST have a 3 rd channel kill switch installed. Some radios have a feature that allow you to mix the 3 rd channel with your throttle channel, this will allow you to engage the kill switch through your throttle trigger. Read your radio programming instructions and understand them. DO NOT operate your boat until you are positive you can kill the engine reliably with a kill switch of some type. You need to contact the kill switch manufacturer/supplier and get the correct kill switch that is compatible to your particular radio. For example, you can review the gas kill switch at A good kill switch will also be a fail safe if you have radio issues. Shop for quality, not a cheap price.